Hook Oil

Hook Oil


were does the crankcase vent hook up to on a rev-tech engine and oil tank?

were does the crankcase breather hook up 3 fittings on engine and 3 on tank old engine has 4 on engine 1987 FLHTCS

Harley stopped using CASE breather systems in 91 and started venting the crankcase through the lifter blocks>pushrod tubes>rocker boxes>one way umbrella valves>heads in 92 and that is what everyone uses now. SOME aftermarket engine still have a fitting on the case behind the oil pump at the bottom/rear of case as an "alternative" to head breathers, but the head breathers are the best way to go....did you happen to notice the 1/2-13 threaded holes in the heads for the carb backing plate instead of your original 5/16-18 threads? This is where the crankcase now vents from, and goes into the air cleaner and re-circulates through the combustion chamber and out the exhaust.

Andy is close on the oil line hookups, however, it sounds like he is thinking of a Softails style tanks, yours, being an OLDER FLH is different, you will need the factory manual to determine the tank fitting, R/T oil pumps are slightly different, the fitting on the face of the pump is the feed from the tank, the fitting on the bottom of the pump facing forward is the return to the filter inlet, the filter outlet will go to the tank return fitting and the fitting on the case just behind the oil pump and JUST below the rear lifter block is the tank vent line, if you have the manual for the engine, follow it for correct routing...DO NOT mix up the lines, especially the oil filter line, they MUST be correctly routed so that the oil goes in & out of the filter in the proper direction.

With that old of a bike and the added stress that engine will create...you NEED...I stress NEED...
a new 5th generation Harley front rubber mount...it is directional...the big flat part goes up!!!....check the condition of the engine stabilizer links if they feel AT ALL LOOSE, they NEED replaced, this will also require drive train re-alignment!!!....let a Harley DEALER do this...it USED to be HIGHLY complicated requiring to 8 foot straight edges, dial calipers, etc...now it can be done in 15 minutes, BUT the tools to do it are $600!!!... you should also have the swingarm rubber isolators (cleveblocks) inspected, if they are worn, they will cause EXCESSIVE swingarm side to side movement that causes fishtailing while riding....the best upgrade to to replace them with this.... look at Part numbers...20-19E and 20-10......it is totally unbelievable how much better handling your bike would be until you ride it with this done.......the ride quality, stability, handling are DRAMATICALLY IMPROVED!!!!.......... http://www.true-track.com/tt_products.html